On restaurants, Paris, 1825

137. — Un restaurateur est celui dont le commerce consiste à offrir au public un festin toujours prêt, et dont les mets se détaillent en portions à prix fixe, sur la demande des consommateurs.

A restaurateur is he whose trade consists in offering to the public a feast always ready, and whose dishes are retailed in portions at a fixed price, at the request of the consumers.

A restaurateur is someone whose business is to offer the public a feast that is always ready. The dishes are sold one by one, in portions at a fixed price, as customers ask for them.

L'établissement se nomme restaurant, celui qui le dirige est le restaurateur. On appelle simplement carte l'état nominatif des mets, avec l'indication des prix, et carte à payer la note de la quantité des mets fournis et de leur prix.

The establishment is named restaurant; he who directs it is the restaurateur. One calls simply carte the nominal list of the dishes, with the indication of the prices, and carte à payer the note of the quantity of dishes furnished and of their price.

The place is called a restaurant,1 and the person who runs it is the restaurateur. The list of dishes with their prices is simply called the carte [menu]. The bill, which lists what was served and what it cost, is the carte à payer.

1. The word first meant a “restoring” meat broth, sold in Paris from the 1760s to people too delicate for a full meal. Only later did it name the place.

Parmi ceux qui accourent en foule chez les restaurateurs, il en est peu qui se doutent qu'il est impossible que celui qui créa le restaurant ne fût pas un homme de génie et un observateur profond.

Among those who run in crowds to the restaurateurs’, there are few who suspect that it is impossible that he who created the restaurant was not a man of genius and a profound observer.

Of all the crowds who hurry to restaurants, few suspect that the man who created the restaurant must have been a genius and a deep observer.

Nous allons aider la paresse, et suivre la filiation des idées dont la succession dut amener cet établissement si usuel et si commode.

We are going to help laziness, and follow the filiation of the ideas whose succession must have brought about this establishment so usual and so convenient.

We will help the lazy by tracing, step by step, the chain of ideas that must have led to this common and handy institution.

138. — Vers 1770, après les jours glorieux de Louis XIV, les roueries de la régence et la longue tranquillité du ministère du cardinal Fleury, les étrangers n'avaient encore à Paris que bien peu de ressources sous le rapport de la bonne chère.

Toward 1770, after the glorious days of Louis XIV, the roueries [rakish tricks] of the regency and the long tranquillity of the ministry of Cardinal Fleury, foreigners [outsiders?] still had in Paris only very few resources in the matter of good cheer.

Around 1770,2 the glorious days of Louis XIV were over,3 and so were the rakish tricks of the Regency4 and the long calm of Cardinal Fleury’s ministry.5 Yet visitors to Paris still had very few places to eat well.

2. This is Brillat-Savarin’s own account. Historians date the first restaurants to the late 1760s; Rebecca Spang names Roze de Chantoiseau, about 1769. They grew out of older food trades, not one inventor’s idea.
3. Louis XIV reigned from 1643 to 1715. His reign was remembered as France’s age of glory.
4. Philippe, Duke of Orléans, ruled for the boy king Louis XV from 1715 to 1723. His court was famous for drinking and loose living; his companions were called roués, “rakes.”
5. André-Hercule de Fleury, a cardinal, was Louis XV’s chief minister from 1726 until his death in 1743, a time of peace at home.

Ils étaient forcés d'avoir recours à la cuisine des aubergistes, qui était généralement mauvaise. Il existait quelques hôtels avec table d'hôte, qui, à peu d'exceptions près, n'offraient que le strict nécessaire, et qui d'ailleurs avaient une heure fixe.

They were forced to have recourse to the cooking of the innkeepers, which was generally bad. There existed some hotels with table d’hôte, which, with few exceptions, offered only the strict necessary, and which besides had a fixed hour.

They had to rely on innkeepers’ cooking, which was usually bad. There were a few hotels with a table d’hôte.6 With few exceptions, these served only the bare necessities, and at a fixed hour besides.

6. The “host’s table”: one shared meal at an inn, served at a set hour and price, with no choice of dishes.

On avait bien la ressource des traiteurs; mais ils ne livraient que des pièces entières, et celui qui voulait régaler quelques amis était forcé de commander à l'avance, de sorte que ceux qui n'avaient pas le bonheur d'être invités dans quelque maison opulente quittaient la grande ville sans connaître les ressources et les délices de la cuisine parisienne.

One had indeed the resource of the traiteurs; but they delivered only whole pieces, and he who wanted to treat some friends was forced to order in advance, so that those who did not have the good fortune to be invited into some opulent house left the great city without knowing the resources and the delights of Parisian cooking.

There were the traiteurs, it is true.7 But they sold only whole pieces [of meat or fowl], and anyone who wanted to treat a few friends had to order ahead. So visitors who were not lucky enough to be invited to some wealthy house left the great city without knowing the riches and delights of Parisian cooking.

7. Caterers, cooks licensed by their guild to sell cooked meat and dishes, usually to order and in whole joints or birds.

Un ordre de choses qui blessait des intérêts si journaliers ne pouvait pas durer, et déjà quelques penseurs rêvaient une amélioration.

An order of things which wounded interests so daily could not last, and already some thinkers were dreaming of an improvement.

A state of affairs that harmed such everyday interests could not last. Already some thinkers dreamed of something better.

Enfin il se trouva un homme de tête qui jugea qu'une cause active ne pouvait rester sans effet; que le même besoin se reproduisant chaque jour vers les mêmes heures, les consommateurs viendraient en foule là où ils seraient certains que ce besoin serait agréablement satisfait; que, si l'on détachait une aile de volaille en faveur du premier venu, il ne manquerait pas de s'en présenter un second qui se contenterait de la cuisse; que l'abscision d'une première tranche dans l'obscurité de la cuisine ne déshonorerait pas le restant de la pièce; qu'on ne regarderait pas à une légère augmentation de paiement quand on aurait été bien, promptement et proprement servi; qu'on n'en finirait jamais dans un détail nécessairement considérable, si les convives pouvaient discuter sur le prix et la qualité des plats qu'ils auraient demandés; que d'ailleurs la variété des mets, combinée avec la fixité des prix, aurait l'avantage de pouvoir convenir à toutes les fortunes.

At last there was found a man with a head who judged that an active cause could not remain without effect; that, the same need reproducing itself each day toward the same hours, the consumers would come in crowds where they would be certain that this need would be agreeably satisfied; that, if one detached a wing of fowl in favor of the first comer, there would not fail to present himself a second who would content himself with the leg; that the abscission of a first slice in the obscurity of the kitchen would not dishonor the rest of the piece; that one would not look at a slight increase of payment when one had been well, promptly and cleanly served; that one would never finish in a retail [trade] necessarily considerable, if the diners could dispute over the price and the quality of the dishes they had ordered; that besides the variety of the dishes, combined with the fixity of the prices, would have the advantage of being able to suit all fortunes.

At last a man with a good head appeared. He reasoned that an active cause could not stay without effect. The same need comes back every day at about the same hours. So customers would crowd to any place where they were sure it would be pleasantly met. If he cut a chicken wing for the first customer, a second would surely come who would be happy with the leg. Cutting the first slice out of sight in the kitchen would not spoil the rest of the roast. People would not mind paying a little more if they were served well, quickly, and cleanly. A business selling so many small portions could never be run if diners could haggle over the price and quality of the dishes they ordered. And a wide choice of dishes at fixed prices could suit every purse.

Cet homme pensa encore à beaucoup de choses qu'il est facile de deviner. Celui-là fut le premier restaurateur, et créa une profession qui commande à la fortune toutes les fois que celui qui l'exerce a de la bonne foi, de l'ordre et de l'habileté.

This man thought also of many things that it is easy to guess. That one was the first restaurateur, and created a profession which commands fortune every time that he who exercises it has good faith, order and skill.

This man also thought of many other things that are easy to guess. He was the first restaurateur. He created a trade that wins a fortune every time it is practiced with honesty, order, and skill.

139. — L'adoption des restaurateurs, qui de France a fait le tour de l'Europe, est d'un avantage extrême pour tous les citoyens, et d'une grande importance pour la science.

The adoption of restaurateurs, which from France has made the tour of Europe, is of an extreme advantage for all citizens, and of a great importance for the science.

Restaurants have spread from France all over Europe. They are a great benefit to every citizen and of great importance for the science [of gastronomy].8

8. Brillat-Savarin treats gastronomy, the knowledge of eating well, as a science throughout his book.

1° Par ce moyen, tout homme peut dîner à l'heure qui lui convient, d'après les circonstances où il se trouve placé par ses affaires ou ses plaisirs.

1st. By this means, every man can dine at the hour that suits him, according to the circumstances in which he finds himself placed by his business or his pleasures.

First, anyone can now dine at the hour that suits him, whenever his business or his pleasures allow.

2° Il est certain de ne pas outrepasser la somme qu'il a jugé à propos de fixer pour son repas, parce qu'il sait d'avance le prix de chaque plat qui lui est servi.

2nd. He is certain not to exceed the sum he has judged fit to fix for his meal, because he knows in advance the price of each dish that is served to him.

Second, he is sure not to spend more than he has decided on for his meal, because he knows ahead of time the price of every dish served to him.

3° Le compte étant une fois fait avec sa bourse, le consommateur peut, à sa volonté, faire un repas solide, délicat ou friand, l'arroser des meilleurs vins français ou étrangers, l'aromatiser de moka et le parfumer des liqueurs des deux mondes, sans autres limites que la vigueur de son appétit ou la capacité de son estomac. Le salon d'un restaurateur est l'Éden des gourmands.

3rd. The account being once made with his purse, the consumer can, at his will, make a meal solid, delicate or dainty, water it with the best French or foreign wines, aromatize it with mocha and perfume it with the liqueurs of the two worlds, without other limits than the vigor of his appetite or the capacity of his stomach. The salon of a restaurateur is the Eden of gourmands.

Third, once he has settled things with his purse, the diner can have whatever meal he likes: hearty, delicate, or full of treats. He can wash it down with the best French or foreign wines, add the aroma of mocha coffee, and finish with the liqueurs of both worlds.9 His only limits are the strength of his appetite and the size of his stomach. A restaurant’s dining room is the Eden of gourmets.

9. Europe and the Americas, the Old World and the New.

4° C'est encore une chose extrêmement commode pour les voyageurs, pour les étrangers, pour ceux dont la famille réside momentanément à la campagne, et pour tous ceux, en un mot, qui n'ont pas de cuisine chez eux, ou qui en sont momentanément privés.

4th. It is also a thing extremely convenient for travelers, for foreigners, for those whose family resides for the moment in the country, and for all those, in a word, who have no kitchen at home, or who are for the moment deprived of it.

Fourth, restaurants are also very handy for travelers and foreigners, and for men whose families are away in the country for a while. In a word, they serve everyone who has no kitchen at home, or who is without one for a time.

Avant l'époque dont nous avons parlé (1770), les gens riches et puissants jouissaient presque exclusivement de deux grands avantages : ils voyageaient avec rapidité et faisaient constamment bonne chère.

Before the epoch of which we have spoken (1770), rich and powerful people enjoyed almost exclusively two great advantages: they traveled with rapidity and constantly made good cheer.

Before the time we spoke of (1770), the rich and powerful had two great privileges almost to themselves: they traveled fast, and they always ate well.

L'établissement des nouvelles voitures qui font cinquante lieues en vingt-quatre heures a effacé le premier privilège; l'établissement des restaurateurs a détruit le second : par eux, la meilleure chère est devenue populaire.

The establishment of the new carriages which make fifty leagues in twenty-four hours has effaced the first privilege; the establishment of the restaurateurs has destroyed the second: through them, the best cheer has become popular.

The new coaches that cover fifty leagues in twenty-four hours10 have wiped out the first privilege. Restaurants have destroyed the second. Thanks to them, the finest food is now within everyone’s reach.

10. A league was about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles), so fifty leagues is about 200 kilometers (125 miles).

Tout homme qui peut disposer de quinze à vingt francs et qui s'assied à la table d'un restaurateur de première classe, est aussi bien et même mieux traité que s'il était à la table d'un prince; car le festin qui s'offre à lui est tout aussi splendide, et ayant en outre tous les mets à commandement, il n'est gêné par aucune considération personnelle.

Every man who can dispose of fifteen to twenty francs and who sits at the table of a restaurateur of the first class is as well and even better treated than if he were at the table of a prince; for the feast which offers itself to him is quite as splendid, and, having besides all the dishes at command, he is hindered by no personal consideration.

Any man with fifteen or twenty francs to spend can sit down in a first-class restaurant. There he is treated as well as at a prince’s table, or even better. The feast set before him is just as splendid. And since he can order any dish he likes, he need not defer to anyone.

140. — Le salon d'un restaurateur, examiné avec un peu de détail, offre à l'œil scrutateur du philosophe un tableau digne de son intérêt par la variété des situations qu'il rassemble.

The salon of a restaurateur, examined with a little detail, offers to the scrutinizing eye of the philosopher a picture worthy of his interest by the variety of the situations it assembles.

Look closely at a restaurant’s dining room, and the philosopher’s searching eye finds a scene worth his attention. It brings together all sorts of people in all sorts of situations.

Le fond est occupé par la foule des consommateurs solitaires, qui commandent à haute voix, attendent avec impatience, mangent avec précipitation, paient et s'en vont.

The back is occupied by the crowd of solitary consumers, who order in a loud voice, wait with impatience, eat with precipitation, pay and go away.

The back of the room is filled with a crowd of diners eating alone. They order loudly, wait impatiently, eat in a hurry, pay, and leave.

On voit des familles voyageuses qui, contentes d'un repas frugal, l'aiguisent cependant par quelques mets qui leur étaient inconnus, et paraissent jouir avec plaisir d'un spectacle tout à fait nouveau pour elles.

One sees traveling families who, content with a frugal meal, whet it however with some dishes which were unknown to them, and appear to enjoy with pleasure a spectacle quite new for them.

You see families on their travels. They are content with a plain meal, but they liven it up with a few dishes they have never tried. They seem to delight in a scene that is completely new to them.

Près de là sont deux époux parisiens : on les distingue par le chapeau et le schall suspendus sur leur tête; on voit que, depuis longtemps, ils n'ont plus rien à se dire : ils ont fait la partie d'aller à quelque petit spectacle, et il y a à parier que l'un des deux y dormira.

Near there are two Parisian spouses: one distinguishes them by the hat and the shawl hung above their head; one sees that for a long time they have had nothing more to say to each other: they have made the party of going to some little show, and it is a wager that one of the two will sleep there.

Nearby sit a Parisian husband and wife. You can tell them by the hat and the shawl11 hanging above their heads. Clearly they have had nothing to say to each other for a long time. They have planned an outing to some small theater, and you can bet that one of them will fall asleep there.

11. He spells it schall, an older spelling of châle.

Plus loin sont deux amants; on en juge par l'empressement de l'un, les petites mignardises de l'autre et la gourmandise de tous les deux. Le plaisir brille dans leurs yeux; et, par le choix qui préside à la composition de leur repas, le présent sert à deviner le passé et à prévoir l'avenir.

Further on are two lovers; one judges it by the eagerness of the one, the little coaxings of the other and the gourmandise of both. Pleasure shines in their eyes; and, by the choice which presides over the composition of their meal, the present serves to guess the past and to foresee the future.

Farther on are two lovers. You can tell by his eagerness, her little coaxing ways, and the greed of both. Pleasure shines in their eyes. The way they choose their meal lets you guess their past and foresee their future.

Au centre est une table meublée d'habitués qui, le plus souvent, obtiennent un rabais et dînent à prix fixe. Ils connaissent par leur nom tous les garçons de salle, et ceux-ci leur indiquent en secret ce qu'il y a de plus frais et de plus nouveau; ils sont là comme un fond de magasin, comme un centre autour duquel les groupes viennent se former, ou, pour mieux dire, comme les canards privés dont on se sert en Bretagne pour attirer les canards sauvages.

In the center is a table furnished with regulars who, most often, obtain a discount and dine at a fixed price. They know by their name all the waiters, and these point out to them in secret what there is freshest and newest; they are there like a stock of the shop, like a center around which the groups come to form, or, to say better, like the tame ducks which one uses in Brittany to attract the wild ducks.

In the center is a table of regulars. Most of them get a discount and dine at a fixed price. They know all the waiters by name, and the waiters tell them in secret what is freshest and newest. They are part of the house’s stock, a center around which groups gather. Or better, they are like the tame ducks used in Brittany to lure wild ones.12

12. Decoy ducks: tame birds kept to draw wild ducks into nets or traps.

On y rencontre aussi des individus dont tout le monde connaît la figure, et dont personne ne sait le nom. Ils sont à l'aise comme chez eux, et cherchent assez souvent à engager la conversation avec leurs voisins. Ils appartiennent à quelques-unes de ces espèces qu'on ne rencontre qu'à Paris, et qui, n'ayant ni propriété, ni capitaux, ni industrie, n'en font pas moins une forte dépense.

One meets there also individuals whose face everyone knows, and whose name no one knows. They are at ease as at home, and seek fairly often to engage conversation with their neighbors. They belong to some of those species which one meets only in Paris, and which, having neither property, nor capital, nor industry [occupation], nonetheless make a heavy expense.

You also meet people whose faces everyone knows but whose names no one knows. They are as much at ease as if they were at home, and they often try to start a conversation with their neighbors. They belong to certain species found only in Paris. They have no property, no capital, and no trade, yet they spend a great deal all the same.

Enfin, on aperçoit çà et là des étrangers, et surtout des Anglais; ces derniers se bourrent de viandes à portions doubles, demandent tout ce qu'il y a de plus cher, boivent les vins les plus fumeux, et ne se retirent pas toujours sans aides.

Finally, one perceives here and there foreigners, and above all English; these last stuff themselves with meats in double portions, ask for all that is most dear, drink the most heady wines, and do not always withdraw without helpers.

Finally, here and there you see foreigners, above all the English. They stuff themselves with double portions of meat, order the most expensive things there are, and drink the strongest wines. They do not always leave without help.

On peut vérifier chaque jour l'exactitude de ce tableau, et, s'il est fait pour piquer la curiosité, peut-être pourrait-il affliger la morale.

One can verify each day the exactness of this picture, and, if it is made to prick curiosity, perhaps it could grieve morality.

Anyone can check the accuracy of this picture any day. It may stir curiosity, but it might also distress a moralist.

141. — Nul doute que l'occasion et la toute-puissance des objets présents n'entraînent beaucoup de personnes dans des dépenses qui excèdent leurs facultés. Peut-être les estomacs délicats lui doivent-ils quelques indigestions, et la Vénus infime quelques sacrifices intempestifs.

No doubt the occasion and the all-power of the objects present drag many persons into expenses which exceed their means. Perhaps delicate stomachs owe it [the restaurant? the occasion?] some indigestions, and the lowest Venus some untimely sacrifices.

No doubt the chance of the moment, and the overwhelming pull of what is right in front of them, lead many people to spend more than they can afford. Perhaps delicate stomachs owe some indigestion to restaurants, and the lowest Venus some ill-timed offerings.13

13. Venus, goddess of love, here in her lowest form: paid or casual sex. He hints that restaurant meals led some diners into ill-timed affairs.

Mais ce qui est bien plus funeste pour l'ordre social, c'est que nous regardons comme certain que la réfection solitaire renforce l'égoïsme, habitue l'individu à ne regarder que soi, à s'isoler de tout ce qui l'entoure, à se dispenser d'égards; et par leur conduite avant, pendant et après le repas, dans la société ordinaire, il est facile de distinguer parmi les convives ceux qui vivent habituellement chez le restaurateur.

But what is much more fatal for the social order is that we regard as certain that solitary refection [eating, a meal] reinforces egoism, accustoms the individual to regard only himself, to isolate himself from all that surrounds him, to dispense himself from regards [courtesies]; and by their conduct before, during and after the meal, in ordinary society, it is easy to distinguish among the guests those who live habitually at the restaurateur’s.

But there is something far more harmful to the social order. We are certain that eating alone strengthens selfishness. It teaches a person to think only of himself, to cut himself off from everything around him, and to stop showing others consideration. In ordinary company, you can easily pick out the guests who usually eat in restaurants by how they behave before, during, and after the meal.14

14. Brillat-Savarin’s own note: “Among other things, when a plate of pieces already cut is passed round, they help themselves and set it down before them without passing it to their neighbor, whom they seldom think about.”